sincerely
i can not thank you enough
ps: link 1 is fixed
honestly i am sorry for inconvenience
i have encountered a problem where i have exceeded the reply limit i am allowed as a new user… so i am unable to reply anymore
i am it seems allowed to edit my replies … so i will be limited to that for the meantime
I lifted that restriction by promoting you to ‘member’ (2 levels above ‘new user’). But that counter should reset every day anyways.
i just want to say what a wonderful community this is!
i am grateful for the assistance and feedback
thank you! and for enabling me to comment further
i am so happy that there is a potential fix to this self inflicted issue!
i could have of course just purchased another skr… but i am stubborn
i am into electronics but am lacking experience with this particular software/hardware.
unfortunately the mofset on my wanhao duplicator í3 plus burnt itself out!
as such was unable to heat the hotbed! it rendered the printer unusable
(i have purchased an external mosfet board to prevent the fire hazard!)
so… i decided to upgrade to 32 bit. only to break the board before i even uploaded the modified firmware!! i didn’t look into where it would be housed in the printer frame
and whilst trying to find a place for it - i rendered the board disabled!
i anticipate i will be asking more questions when i get my board up and running
i am new to pio (it is a great tool) and just updating and customising the firmware etc was initially a steep learning curve. (i had previously edited the marlin files in Microsoft visual studio)
i modified marlin to be compatible with the printer i have been using
but was unable to upload it due to the missing sd-card!!
it is highly embarasing and frustrating to say the least!
i was unable to find the solution online and stumbled on the post here which encouraged me to join the community.
Okay I need either @d_man or @tokaphi to do some measurements on the board with a multimeter.
Here’s what I could figure out from the pictures (open picture in new tab)
I think the board is routed like this
Which would mean that the 2 wires need to be solderer to the left side of the first resistor (P0.27) and last resistor (SSEL1) of the column.
Now I need that to be checked. Can someone please take a multimeter in continuity mode and check if the following points are connected:
With the reference points
Okay that was unexpected, the rest is as expected. Can you please measure the following connections. Given the SPI port
and the reference points
erreur D with E ==> OK
OK
Seriously!, I just want to express my gratitude.
I am overwhelmed by the support you have both shown.
You have gone way beyond… what i imagined would result from my questions…the time and effort you both (as a group) have put in is really amazing… for the reverse engineering
thankful is an understatement. i would have been stranded without your input
i will try to make good to the best of my severely limited capabilities
and apply the input you so kindly provided
Quote
Which would mean that the 2 wires need to be solderer to the left side of the first resistor (P0.27) and last resistor (SSEL1) of the column.
sadly both of the pads (DAT1[8] & SSEL [7] have been damaged
so i cannot solder those connections on skr 1.4 turbo [SD-M]
i think it is unlikely i will be able to solder wires to the smd resistor terminals.
are my hopes dashed in respect to fixing this???
bonjour! tokaphi
to solder to smd resistor - i think not possible
i would have been able to solder to the sd-m pins but pad has no copper
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1crmt0o0IyHAstf-iFVWBP68FOekvnKg7/view?usp=sharing
i have photographed the reverse side tracks with more detail
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pznulB5ta2AU70GGNWv6MCB9GdzZKBb1/view?usp=sharing
prehaps is it possible to solder to reverse side and include resistor if needed?
i had hoped that the adafruit sd module would be able to be connected directly to spi without additional wiring as its plug and play to SPI?
you need a fine soldering tip and just come and place the tinned wire
If i understand you correctly?
is too small to solder!!!
no other way??
i failed to solder to the SD-M vias! i have even less chance to successfully solder to the resistor.
here, but you have to add a 10k resistor
merci [tokaphi]
same issue!
too small i think without additional equipment eg hotair gun
but to clarify… the wiring is this what is required to correct?
OR alternatively
I think i may just possibly be able to solder to Y
thank you that is more viable option
(i hope not to desolder or damage the component also (lol!)
i might have to invest into hot-air soldering station (useful for future)
except it will be more expensive than replacing the skr 1.4!!!
i will attempt the fix - it is certainly worth a try!
merci for the continued input
i appreciate your efforts to educate an idiot!
Hm both sides of the resistor shouldn’t go through the to the 0.8-MOSI header. I’m deducing from the I and J connections that the left side of the resistor must go the header (and must also be connected to the SD card SPI signals). So this is what we get from the known tested connections
So the solder points are clear after all, to the left of D7 and to the left of R55.
In this diagram, CD should be solderer to the left of Diode D7, becuase the bootloader will use pin P0.27 which is connected to the original SD card holder; P0.26 on the SPI header is a different pin. Of course, there is a chance that this pin might also be ignored by the bootloader – only way to be sure it to test it with and without that connection. All other connections are correct.
Hm I personally would not use hot air. You would also need kapton tape to isolate the plastic headers (e.g. SPI) so that they don’t melt. Really, a soldering iron with a small tip is good enough. You will need some practice of course and the right technique. For example, you should add solder to the left side of the resistor (or diode) and also to one end of the wire first (“pre-tinning”). Then just bring the pre-tinned components together, touch both of them with the fine soldering iron to melt them, then back off.
There are even “SMD practice boards” available on e.g. aliexpress or ebay, which have all sorts of SMD components (and sizes) to help you practice. And a soldering iron with a few tips also doesn’t cost much (maybe 20-30€)? Youtube also has a ton of tutorials (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKbJxytERvg, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzoPxvIM2qE, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE)
But you’re right, with the materials and tools and practice needed, it might cost more than a new SKR 1.4 mainboard, so don’t spend too much on it 
